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How to take care of a BLUE MYSTIQUE ORCHID

How-to-take-care-of-a-BLUE-MYSTIQUE-ORCHID

“Dr. Masahiro’ created Blue mystique orchids at University in Japan.Orchids are a representation of beautiful perfection. They are commonly called “Moth orchids”.

Orchids are epiphytic in nature; which means it clings to rocks or trees for support. Due to the epiphytic nature, orchids absorb nutrients from the atmosphere and not from soil. Orchids generally need a humid atmosphere for good growth.

Orchids produce lots of pollen grains (which improves the rate of pollination), light seeds(which gets spread easily).

Blue Mystique orchids are not generated by the procedure of crossing via hybridization (hybridization is the process of an animal or plant breeding with an individual of another species or variety).

The attractive blue color of orchids is due to infusion that is the addition of dye or patented dyeing process on naturally white orchids. The infusion procedure takes about 48-90 hours to occur.

The life cycle of blue mystique orchids lasts for 7-8 months. If proper attention is given to plants then they can flower twice in  a year.

Orchids can be able to live for years even decades with proper care and attention, the growth of orchids is dependent on a few factors. They should have proper growing conditions. It is easy to learn how to take care of the blue mystique orchids by adopting the following methods:-

  • Blue Mystique orchids may become dry more often than other orchids- so we have to regularly check, about twice a week that they are not drying. Should always prevent, blue mystique orchids to dry as it will affect its growth
  • The orchid should never be permitted to dry out thoroughly, but keep in mind that orchids are not fully immersed in water, otherwise they will decompose and die.
  • The roots of orchids are not like other plants, They layout all over the vessel to gain moisture, air, and light.
  • Make sure that orchids receive lots of fresh air, moisture, rainwater, and just enough light.

There are some proper methods and adaptations which will help orchids to grow better. These include factors like light, watering, soil, fertilizers required, etc. Some of which are given below:-

1. ENVIRONMENT:

Orchids need to stay away from mellowed (matured) fruits because fruits can release a fruit ripening gas known as ‘ethylene’ that is injurious to the plant.

 2. SOIL:

a-mixture-of-charcoal-and-bark-soil

Orchids do not grow in basic soil, instead, they grow in a mixture of charcoal and bark, out of which charcoal helps the plants to absorb any impurities from the medium.

Clay pots are specially designed for orchids to grow, orchid plants are grown in fast-draining soil. There are two categories of soil mixes used to grow blue orchids: the bark-based mix and moss mix.

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The bark-based mixtures allow the water to outflow rapidly, so for that, we have to water an orchid more often. The moss mix holds on to more water, so we can go longer in constant intervals of watering.

3. HUMIDITY:

humidity

Humidity plays a major role in all kinds of plants. Leaves evaporate it’s water in the surrounding, a process called transpiration. The rate of transpiration depends majorly on the humid atmosphere in the surroundings.

Each plant has its own humid environment requirements. 50%-70% of a humid atmosphere required for proper orchid growth. They don’t have pseudobulbs (a solid bulb-like enlargement of the stem) that could help them preserve moisture.

Orchids can grow in low humidity environments as well if its water requirements get fulfilled. When the orchid gets dry we can use a humidifier.

4. WATERING:

WATERING-orchid

 

Water the orchids plant consistently throughout the life cycle of the plant. We can adopt drainage methods for this. Don’t keep orchids in a vessel full of water, nor should water get leaked from bottommost.

However, it decreases the frequency of watering an orchid during winter. Be careful and take care of proper drainage in the potting mixture.

Orchids grow on other plants to support their growth, that procures supplements from air and moisture when their roots are uncovered, they dry out rapidly, so water properly.

Always don’t allow the roots to dry out completely while watering the orchids.

Orchids placed in plastic growers pots, from its original vessel while watering and are considered as the most suitable method for watering.

After that place, the orchid under a slow-running tap for around 15 seconds, make sure the tap water is not too fast. As the orchid is getting watered, wet each boundary of the plant, but keep away the leaves of the plant.

We can also water the orchid using cube ice or dry ice. Before placing the orchid back in its same vessel, let the water evaporate for 5 to 10 minutes so that the water cannot harm the plant growth.

Repeat the same procedure of watering the plant every time, when the orchid soil starts to dry again.

Utilizing a vessel which has holes at the base for a proper drainage system, specialized for orchids that can help in this procedure of watering.

5. TEMPERATURE:

Orchids can blossom in between the temperature range of 75°F – 85°F(23°C – 29°C) during the day and around 60°F – 65°F (15°C-18°C) during night-time to blossom adequately.

Orchids can tolerate cooler or warmer temperatures throughout their normal blooming season. Orchids can bloom very big and beautiful flowers if they are fulfilled with their airflow and temperatures needs.

Please avoid Variations in temperature range because the orchids don’t tolerate and get decomposed and decayed.

Never reveal the orchids in the environment which has a temperature below 50°F or temperatures above 100°F, because they are sensitive to severe changes in the temperature.

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6. LIGHT: 

Orchids are sciophytes that are shade-loving plants, especially during summers. To protect the orchids from direct sunlight as the sunlight may destroy the leaves and flowers.

However, it does need light but divergent or indirect light. Excessive light to the orchids will result in less number of flowers and the smaller size. The toughest part of developing an orchid is supplying a sufficient amount of light.

Unlike other plants, these plants require indirect sunlight to flower. In some seasons sometimes orchids are kept in direct sunlight which helps them to promote well growth and blossoms.

7. POTTING MEDIUM:

POTTING-MEDIUM-orchid

For the nourishment of blue mystique orchid plants, well-drained soil should be present. It’s obligatory a good drainage system, it will aid to drain out the water at the bottom of the pot.

The potting medium shouldn’t turn mushy (soft and wet). You can add mixes in the pot that drain out swiftly, you can choose perlite, charcoal, peat, etc.

8. FERTILIZERS: 

FERTILIZERS-orchids

Fertilizers are crucial for encouraging inflorescence in dormant orchids. During the active developing period, you can put in a balanced quantity of fertilizer (20-20-20). This is perfect for the orchid in a slough based mix.

For orchids which are potted in bark mix, use fertilizer which contains high levels of nitrogen within them (30-10-10).

Fertilizers should be used only in a month during winters. Good fertilizers supplied regularly during the active growing season.

So the basic rule to apply fertilizers, weekly while they are manufacturing new growth and monthly while they get mature.

Abandon all well-adjusted once the plants go dormant In summers a stunted nitrogen fertilizer 10-50-10(commonly known as bloom booster) is endorsed to promote blooming.

9. FEEDING: 

Do the feeding, after settling down the orchids in pots, and this phase is powerful. Use the corresponding fertilizers, at the corresponding robustness with every watering.

Do the process of condensation daily for two weeks, If orchids lose roots (they turn tedious and lose the green tip).

10. REPOTTING THE PLANT:

 When there is not enough light, the orchids refuse to bloom or re-bloom; this period is known as the “no-bloom period”.

The no-bloom period is a great phase to repot the orchids if required. Take into consideration that it’s usual for the roots to dangle all over the site; roots are checking out for moisture, air, and light.

While repotting, use a mix together with bark. If orchids are repotted into a sizable vessel, the roots will never run across their path to the light, and roots will decay.

Try to move the plant if it has exceeded the pot. It is normal for the roots to suspended (hang) all over the place; they are looking for condensation (moisture), air, and light.

The main reason to repot an orchid is to freshen the soil mix, an orchid needs a smaller vessel than the plant itself.

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Repotting is done in the course of budding (spring season) after flourishing (flowering season) while repotting, dislodge (shake off) the mixes from roots, and remove decomposed roots.

11. PRUNE: 

PRUNE-orchid

When the blossoms drop, cut the stem 5 centimeters overhead the leaves. This will allow the flower to grow from the bottom and the stem.

If we slash the stem high up, the new spike will be narrower and does not be able to keep up as many flowers. Cut back the stem, once a flower has dehydrated.

From the base of the stem of the plant, we can trim the old and unhealthy flower spike. It is infrequent for an orchid to efflorescence on the same stem.

If you trim the stem much shorter, it will not blossom from that stem, only from the bottom. This way, we will let the plant the chance to have various spikes.

12. REBLOOMING:

If we take care of the orchid as told, we will see a rebloom in six to nine months. One time if orchids have stopped flowering, it will go in a phase called ‘dormancy’ which is the period of apprehended plant growth

At first, it seems like the plant expired, but it is not. This dormancy phase is referred to as a “resting period” where the plant restores its all supplements which get distributed throughout the blossoming procedure.

The duration of this phase is approximately 6 to 9 months. After that, the orchid will rebloom again.

Orchids can bloom-rebloom for 6 or 7 months of the year. 

If the orchid is not blooming, it’s in all probability because of these 8 reasons:

  • Not enough light:

Orchids are kept in regions with indirect sunlight.

  • Too much light:

Different from the majority of plants, orchids will lose a life when displayed too much sunlight. Make sure the orchid is in a region that collects divergent sunlight.

  • Temperature

Orchids need temperatures between 65°F to 75°F and cannot manage extreme weather changes.

  • Fertilizer

If the orchid is in a disinfected extinct (inorganic) potting mix, it does not acquire all the supplements that it needs. To let the orchid the supplement boost that it needed.

  • Repotting:

When orchids develop their receptacles, their roots can strangle from lack of real ventilation(airing).

Repot the roots from the receptacle, if you observe them turning brown.

  • Season

Summer is the best season for blooming orchids. So, look more carefully at the orchid they are attempting to blossom in the summer.

  • Too much water

Over-watering the orchid is the main reason for the orchid to not bloom. When the orchid’s leaves wilting (wither) i.e. become damaged through heat and loss of water or its roots turning brown, this means that it is collecting excessive water.

  • Too little water:

Under-watering the orchid, the orchid’s leaves look dry, water the plant and give it the proper for observation. 

References

https://www.cabdirect.org/cabdirect/abstract/20143304784
https://academic.oup.com/pcp/article/43/6/639/1837713
https://www.ingentaconnect.com/contentone/cryo/cryo/2017/00000038/00000004/art00005

Constance Harrington

Written by Constance Harrington

Constance Harrington is an award-winning and recognized botanist. Harrington has poured hundreds of hours into research (as well as into her own personal gardens and endeavors) and as such has an amazing eye for horticulture and all of its intricacies. She has authored several articles for the website focusing on a vast variety of topics, from basic gardening techniques to more advanced and specific topics for professionals. Constance aims to help with all aspects of your garden—-from technique to economics to culinary—-and she carries with her both the knowledge to do so and the written prowess to explain it to you in an easy to understand way.

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